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Advice for first lift & bottom paint job
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2020-07-04 at 5:19:31 PM GMT
Posts: 9
Advice for first lift & bottom paint job
Hi guys,
Was wondering if you might be able give me some advice for the upcoming work I’m planning on commencing on my boat starting on July 17th. Trying to get my head around things and get the various equipment supplies sorted out early so I’m ready to go once the boat is lifted. The plan is to remove the existing bottom paint (it's flaking and old, imagine there's several layers of incompatible paints), re-paint the bottom, hopefully restore the white stripe below the bootstrip, refresh the stripe below the gunwhale, get the knotmeter working and address anything else I notice while it's out.
So far my plan was to get 3 friends (team of 4) and work through it with them. For an Alberg 37 do you think that’s a good number of bodies/hands to make it a quick/easy job or would you recommend more or less people? 
My equipment/supplies list is as follows, please let me know if you’d add anything to the list or have any recommends on how many/much of each or good brands:
  • orbital sanders w vacuum ports
  • shop vacs
  • extension cords 
  • paint scrapers 
  • paint roller handles/pans 
  • sanding disks (60 & 80 grit, any recommends on how many?)
  • stuff to fill blisters? (if so - what would you recommend for this, and is there any other tools you’d advise to use it?)
  • bottom paint (was thinking black - any recommends on why any other colours might be preferable? any recommends on brands or type of bottom paint? Know there’s ablative and copper-containing paints, sounds like ablative paints are more environmentally friendly and might be the way to go? how much shall I get?)
  • barrier coat? (suppose would wait to buy this and get some only if damaged mine? any recommends on brands/types if so?)
  • masks/goggles (for friends without respirators), suppose masks of any sort are probably pretty hard to source at the moment due to the pandemic - any recommends on what to get or where to get them in terms of something friends who are helping can wear for protection?
  • respirator (for myself - would you agree it’s worthwhile to get one for this and future jobs? what type would you advise? any recommends on what sort of filter/cartridge to use for this kind of work?)
  • coveralls
  • paint thinner/stripper (any recommends on which and how much?)
  • paint to re-do the stripe on the boat just below the gunwhale (any recommends on what kind of paint to use for this?)
Will look online into how to go about things, but please let me know if you have any tips on how to go about removing the old paint and applying the new bottom paint. 
Also looking to polish and wax the topsides - please let me know if you have any tips on what to use and how to do that (will look it up also).
Also looking to remove the fading gold stripe below the gunwhale and perhaps paint it in black. Any tips on how to do that or on what to use? (will look this up too) 
Lastly, it looks like the current bottom paint was painted over a thin white stripe that existed/exists below the black boot stripe. Wanted to bring this thin white stripe at the waterline back. Think theres any way of removing the blue bottom paint from it and preserving the white stripe? If not - any tips on how to go about painting on a new white stripe there? (starting point and goal pictured below)
Thanks a ton for any help or information you can offer. Booked my lift a ways out so I have time to do research and gather things, but rather than me try to solely learn off the internet/books - given all the experience of this group thought I'd reach out for any info to be gleaned from real-world experience!



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2020-07-04 at 11:50:32 PM GMT
Posts: 86

one of the things to do if you can.Is to strip off all the old antifoul down to the gelcoat. There is a stripping product, cant remember the name, that most chandleries or boatyards will know about that will dissolve the old antifoul once you’ve sanded away as much as possible without sanding away the gelcoat.

Usually that stripping process, a very messy one, takes a few days to complete. The big advantage, specially on an older hull, is it will allow to see exactly the state of the hull. Sometimes exposing blisters, which are easily filled. (That’s another process worth researching if that happens, but it is by no means the death of your hull...) I filled over an hundred on our hull at one point.

Then once the gelcoat is exposed, a really good idea is to applying 4-5 coats of Interprotect. A two part epoxy paint that will protect the gelcoat indefinitely. On the last coat of interprotect, you wait for a tacky cure and before it cures completely you add your first coat of antifoul. It will bind with the interprotect. Then anywhere from 2-3 more coats of antifoul with a final coat applied to all the leading edges, water line to about w feet down, rudder, keel. Since these are the high friction areas, this is where the antifoul bleeds off first while on ocean passage.

For inshore sailing ablative antifoul is ok but for offshore I think non ablative is better. We used ablative and had to repaint every year since we left Canada. Interlux also produces a really good leaflet to describes any application type and paint you would ever used, with proper application techniques and recommended products for hull type, That is a really good read and a must to help you plan the work. Good luck j

Jean Baillargeon

Why should I care about posterity?
What's posterity ever done for me?

Groucho Marx

2020-07-05 at 3:14:39 PM GMT
Posts: 10
First thing to do is confirm the yard will let you sand bottom paint - the last 2 I use won't without a full tent including the ground with all dust removed before removing the tent. Sanding in the tent is a very toxic undertaking best done with full hazmat suit and forced air breathing with a full face respirator - not cheap and very hot. I think your best bet is using a stripper for the whole job. Lay a 6 mil polly sheet on the ground to catch any sludge you don't manage to collect in a bucket. Plan your removal sequense so you minimize walking (kneeling) on the contaminated poly. West system web site has good info on blister repair. If you get all the paint off definately apply a barrier coat as previously advised. I love Brightside polyurethane for topside paint for your white and black stripes - add a bit of either the spraying or brushing thinner and keep dipping your brush in a bit of thinner when it starts dragging. We have one person apply and a second person follows doing the tipping but for a thin line one person may be able to do both - count on 2 thin coats - too thick and it will sag. Our Endurance 35 is about the same size as yours and takes 1 gallon of bottom paint per coat. We use Petit Horizon and get 3 years with 2 coats and a bit of rubbing for slime removal the 2nd and 3rd year. We like blue as it shows any growth.

2020-07-13 at 7:51:28 PM GMT
Posts: 9
Thanks a ton for the tips and info Jean & R. Dodge - really appreciate it.

Any recommends on what to use to apply the stripper? Any particular kind of brush best?

Looking forwards to getting started with what I'm sure will be both a hard and rewarding job!

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